Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to explore these stories and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.